In the latest Michelin ranking Germany boasts nine three-star-restaurants and comes out ahead of Italy (5), just behind the culinary leader France with its 26 elite eateries. Baiersbronn in the Black Forest, a town of 16.000, boasts seven stars alone and contributes its fair share to elevate the land of Sauerkraut and Bratwurst into gourmet heaven.
Three Highly Decorated Chefs in One Town
Chef Claus-Peter Lumpp at Hotel Bareiss just earned his third star, while Harald Wohlfahrt at Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube at Hotel Traube-Tonbach has held on to three stars continuously for 15 years and his restaurant was listed as one of the 10 Best French Restaurants Outside of France in 2007.
The third crowned one-star-chef in this little gourmet Mecca is Joerg Sackmann at Restaurant Schlossberg in the Wellness Hotel Sackmann. He trained with Harald Wohlfahrt, perfected his craft in Berlin and Munich only to return home to compete locally.
Tasteful Competition Promotes Excellence
What is it about Baiersbronn that brings about excellence? Tasteful competition sprouted in this hidden hamlet of wood workers and carpenters when tourists began to discover the Black Forest . Since the 1960s two family-owned hotels have outdone each other in attracting guests. When one hotel built an indoor-pool, the other countered with a state-of-the art outdoor saltwater pool. A French-style eatery opened in 1978 and was an immediate success. Promptly other local chefs stepped up to the plate. Perseverance, dedication and a down-to-earth mentality characterize the people in this remote town amidst mountains that top out at 4500 feet.
Classic French Cuisine and Local Flavors
Harald Wohlfahrt, Schwarzwaldstube's Executive Chef, is a master of classic French cuisine. Born and raised in the Black Forest , he was introduced to hard work and a love of fresh food on his grandparents' farm, where they butchered hogs and made apple cider. He worked his way up and interned with star chefs like Alain Chapel and Eckart Witzigmann, Germany's first celebrity chef.
Steamed lobster on strips of leek with a mild lemongrass sauce is Wohlfahrt's signature dish. Other favorites are a salad of grilled vegetables and roasted prawns in olive vinaigrette with pistou or gratin of sander fillet with macademia nuts and oriental spices on risoletti in thai curry and maple-lime sauce.
Mushroom shaped pieces of iced, chocolate-coated fruit are perched on long sticks for visual pleasure. Needless to say the wine list is exceptional and the service impeccable.
Claus-Peter Lumpp at the Bareiss is known for his blending of French-Mediterranean cuisine with local dishes. Specialties include locally raised veal served with white asparagus, brook trout stuffed with cherry tomatoes, and dozens of homemade cheeses. One of the dessert specialties are baked leaves of chocolate with nougat and orange sauce, a perfect blend of flavors. The elegant Louis XV–style dining room with stunning views of the mountains makes for an unforgettable dining experience.
Wrapping Fish like Christo
Down at the Murg River Joerg Sackmann heads the one-star Restaurant Schlossberg. He is the youngest star in the chef-troika. The French restaurant guide Gault Millau named him "Christo of the kitchen". Inspired by the cutting-edge Spanish and Asian cuisine Sackmann likes to wrap fish, vegetables, and even desserts in delicate sheets of crepes, the thinnest potato crusts and veils of pasta. His desserts include Black Forest specialties like Griessflammerl with rhubarb compote (semolina flummery).
Sackmann also is a great storyteller. He has one about an early morning flight to the Black Sea where he prepared a 15 -course meal for the Russian President. Another time he served the French National soccer team Black Forest roast saddle of venison in elderberry syrup. They raved about it and excelled on the field the next day!
Restaurant reservations are required at least six months in advance.
Low cost airlines fly to Baden-Baden/Karlsruhe Airpark . An hourly commuter train from Karlsruhe has recently been modernized and climbs through the dramatic Murg Valley crossing 8 bridges and 10 tunnels.
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